A reimagined traditional townhouse just steps from Kyoto’s oldest Zen Buddhist temple combines heritage with high-end luxury and showcases the city’s culture via exclusive workshops
Location
Location-wise, it doesn’t get any better than this. Singaporean hyper-luxe hotel group Capella has opened its first ever Japan property in the heart of Kyoto’s historic Miyagawa-cho district. This reimagined machiya – traditional townhouse – is mere steps from Kaburenjo Theatre, where geiko (geisha) and maiko performances take place every day (you can spot performers walking to work in their distinctive white face paint, elaborate hair ornaments and sumptuous kimonos). It’s also just across the road from Kenninji Temple, Kyoto’s oldest Zen Buddhist temple.
open image in galleryExploring Kyoto’s hundreds of temples and shrines is best done by bike if you’re able – Capella handily has some available to borrow for free – or Gion-Shijo Station, on the Keihan main line, is just a five-minute walk away.
Kyoto doesn’t have an airport, but visitors can fly into nearby Osaka or Tokyo, from where the city is accessible by bullet train. The hotel is an eight-minute taxi or an 18-minute bus from Kyoto train station.
Read more: This tranquil hotel in Osaka was so relaxing I didn’t want to leave
The vibe
The hotel attracts the most well-heeled of international crowds – think White Lotus vibes (minus the murders). The expensive-feeling lobby and guest areas exude a tranquil air thanks to a balance of simple, contemporary elegance and bold, statement Japanese artworks and artefacts to keep things steeped in Kyoto’s history and heritage.
open image in galleryThis sense is bolstered by Capella’s exclusive selection of experiences that bring the area’s culture directly to guests, with bespoke Capella “rituals”, “moments” and “curates” activities, including a private performance and Q&A with a maiko from a Gion teahouse; a breathwork and meditation session; a furoshiki wrapping workshop; and a visit to a local geta atelier, where guests can speak to a master artisan about the craft of making traditional wooden sandals.
The service
High-touch and unfailingly polite sums it up best. Staff are abundant, friendly and hands-on – though never overbearing or in your face – ready to greet you upon arrival whenever you return and to check you have everything you need (nothing is too much trouble).
Ask for directions to one of the restaurants or the exit – sometimes necessitated due to a distinct dearth of signage – and they’ll lead you there in person rather than wave you off with instructions.
Bed and bath
“Understated elegance” is the description Capella uses for its 89 rooms and suites, arranged around the hotel’s soothing central courtyard – and the cool, contemporary, minimalist design certainly fits the bill.
There are three room types and five types of suite, including ones with en-suite onsens for a private bathing experience. The largest, the Capella Suite, has three beds across a two-bedroom layout plus a separate tatami dining room; guests also receive a complimentary 60-minute private onsen experience and a 30-minute massage at the hotel spa.
The smallest rooms feel more spacious thanks to warm lighting, wood-panelled walls, traditional Japanese-style shoji screens and an all-neutral palette of taupe, beige and cream. Extra texture comes from bespoke, individual canvases above the beds featuring Japanese characters, plus shadow art created by strategically placed flower arrangements and clever lighting.
open image in galleryYou’ll find complimentary snacks and soft drinks replenished daily in the minibar, custom Italian Frette linen on the bed, Bamford toiletries, a rainfall shower and stand-alone bathtub in the bathroom, and a 65-inch Smart TV on the wall, as well as a Bang & Olufsen speaker and Repronizer, hair dryer.
Depending on which room type you book, you can enjoy a different view: city, temple or theatre. Mine overlooked the Miyagawa-cho Kaburenjo Theatre, perfect for people watching as maiko and geiko come and go for their performances.
Read more: This theatre-turned luxury hotel is one of Kyoto’s most homely stays
Food and drink
Three separate restaurants channel different vibes. The prestige offering is SoNoMa, a collab with three-Michelin-starred chef Kyle Connaughton and head farmer Katina Connaughton of SingleThread in Sonoma, California. In this reimagining of a machiya teahouse, chef Keita Tominaga dishes up contemporary Californian-Japanese fusion across a 12-seat counter and 20-seat lounge bar.
open image in galleryIt was sadly closed on the days of my visit, but Lanterne, a contemporary French brasserie using seasonal Kyoto ingredients, is the perfect spot for a sophisticated light lunch – think cold poached shrimp with heirloom tomatoes followed by steamed seabass, artichoke and bouillabaisse sauce – while Yoi is a buzzy spot for bar dining. The latter does contemporary Japanese plates and craft cocktails; order the saikyo yaki cod with tomatoes pickled in passionfruit and a fudgey smoked cheesecake for afters.
Breakfast, served in Lanterne, has the full smorgasbord buffet, plus Japanese and Western a la carte hot options, including matcha pancakes, bacon and potato hash, and a croissant sandwich of scrambled egg, ham, avo and gruyere.
Most dietary requirements can be catered for if guests request them in advance.
Facilities
The Auriga Spa mixes traditional Japanese rituals with modern wellness treatments, delivered across four suites. There’s also a relaxation lounge, steam rooms, saunas and experience showers (all split into male and female), plus a 24-hour fitness centre featuring natural light – a nice change from the “stick it in the basement” school of gym design beloved by so many hotels.
open image in galleryFor an extra dose of relaxation, try one of the three private onsen rooms, where you can experience the Japanese tradition of bathing in a hot springs-fed pool without the fear of onlookers. This blissfully chilled-out experience comes with an adjoining private room and the option to borrow a bespoke Capella yukata (a lightweight cotton or linen kimono) for enhanced lounging in style.
Read more: This Tokyo hotel has rooms with some of the best views of the city
Accessibility
All restaurants and public spaces are wheelchair accessible and one guest room (a Premier Temple King) is fully accessible with automatic doors, lowered features, grab bars and a roll-in shower.
Pet policy
Pets are strictly prohibited other than service dogs.
Check-in/check-out
Check-in is at 3pm; check-out is at 12pm.
Family-friendly?
Complimentary cots, high chairs, bathrobes, pyjamas and slippers, colouring pencils and toiletries are provided for children. The quiet, high-end luxury makes it hard to imagine toddlers running around, but staff are reportedly universally patient with kids.
At a glance
Best thing: Unique curated experiences that give you exclusive access to Kyoto’s culture.
Perfect for: A once-in-a-lifetime, bucket-list trip or romantic city break.
Not right for: People who like to feel anonymous and spend minimal time in their holiday digs.
Instagram from: The rock waterfall in the wellness lobby.
Address: 130 Komatsucho, Higashiyama Ward, Kyoto, 605-0811, Japan
Phone: +81 755 418877
Website: capellahotels.com/en/capella-kyoto
Read more: I stayed in a luxury Japanese ryokan and it was the perfect antidote to a busy city break
Helen was a guest of Capella Kyoto