It is a sartorial truth universally acknowledged that if you’re going to Wimbledon, you must wear white. It’s a uniform that is as synonymous with the tournament as ice-cold jugs of Pimms and buckets of strawberries slathered in cream. It’s just what you do.
Well, not if you happen to move within the style set.
The unspoken rule for spectators stems from the very loudly spoken one that applies to the players, who must abide by an almost entirely all-white dress code for their games, applying to socks, skirts, shorts, shirts and even hats. Any coloured trims are limited to a 10mm strip. Yes, really.
The only exception was introduced in 2023 and allows women who are menstruating to wear dark-coloured shorts underneath their tennis skirts to provide some peace of mind.
Still, tennis whites remain sartorially supreme for many, especially those who wish to pay homage to the sport’s heritage – the tradition of wearing white for tennis stems from the 16th-century in France, when wealthy players of a variation of the game wore white as it kept them cool during the warmer months. As for Wimbledon, the all-white rule has been in place since the 19th century.
Given the tournament only began this week, it’s still early days in terms of who is wearing what. But if this year’s celebrity Wimbledon appearances so far are anything to go by, it looks like all-white outfits are officially off the menu. At least it is for those in the know.
open image in galleryInstead, the go-to shades are sugary pastels and, interestingly, polka dots. Leading the pack on Monday was AJ Odudu, who arrived at Centre Court in a buttercup yellow dress by AYM Studio. Featuring a thigh-high slit and a ruched waist silhouette, the look offered a sophisticated, summertime twist on the classic tennis aesthetic. It was reminiscent of another standout look from last year’s Wimbledon, courtesy of Olivia Dean, a cowl-neck lemon yellow midi dress also by AYM Studio.
Elsewhere, Jameela Jamil arrived on days one and two in polka dot dresses. For the first outing, the actress opted for a monochrome, off-shoulder frock with oversized puff sleeves by Queens of Archive. And for the second patterned ensemble, Jamil chose a fitted brown, keyhole dress with black polka dots. A theme is clearly emerging.
On day two, broadcaster and musician Mollie King changed the game even further by donning a pastel pink skirt suit. The Jackie O-style look came complete with black trimmings and large, round buttons. It was giving more classic American aristocrat as opposed to a celebrity tennis spectator.
Both Pixie Lott and Maude Apatow were also donning pink looks, with Lott’s miniskirt suit almost matching Evian’s famous pink hue in the brand’s VIP on-site suite. Even Mary Berry got the memo, wearing a candyfloss-coloured pink dress that she actually also wore to the Baftas last month. Who said you couldn’t be sustainable at Wimbledon?
open image in galleryMeanwhile, Carol Kirkwood opted for a blue floral dress, and both Oti Mabuse and Lorraine Kelly chose different shades of green for their courtside looks.
So, is the white tennis era over? First off, it’s worth clarifying that the official Wimbledon Hospitality Handbook states that the dress code for spectators is “smart casual”, which offers myriad broad interpretations.
“Clean, white outfits often exude the minimalist ‘quiet luxury’ trend which we’ve seen over the last few years,” explains Sarah Buchanan, senior womenswear designer at ASOS. As a result, the summer clothing palette has changed. “We have seen a shift away from this, and more towards dopamine dressing: displaying your personality through your fashion choices, often through bright colours and patterns. Whilst brightly coloured outfits might be few and far between at Wimbledon, the move away from all white shows that guests are happy to bend the unwritten rules and have a little more fun with their style.”
The transition also speaks to something exciting: a celebration of individuality rather than conforming to archaic codes. “Personal style has won,” says award-winning personal stylist Susie Hasler. “Women are far more interested in dressing in a way that feels like them, and an event like Wimbledon is the perfect place to do that.”
The move away from all white shows that guests are happy to bend the unwritten rules and have a little more fun with their style
Sarah Buchanan, senior womenswear designer at ASOS
“For years, crisp white tailoring, lace dresses and monochrome looks were almost considered the look,” says celebrity stylist Oriona Robb. “Linen, tailoring, a clean silhouette are all still very Wimbledon. Just let the colour do some of the talking, opting for rich butter yellows, sage greens, powder blues, soft pinks and chocolate tones.”
While an unlikely contender, brown is a rising summer shade: look to some of Paloma Wool’s standout seasonal pieces, or the litany of chocolate brown maxi dresses on offer at Staud, Topshop and Damson Madder. The colour pairs particularly well for those who favour red lipstick: a pop of colour elevates the dark shade.
It makes sense when you consider one of pop culture’s standout summer sporting event outfits: yes, I’m talking about Julia Roberts in that brown polka dot dress in Pretty Woman. It’s an ensemble, worn by her character to an LA polo match, that’s often referenced today.
If polka dots are what you’re after, Reformation has a few solid options, including a backless navy mini dress. And you can always count on Rixo for some zany patterns: the London-based label has plenty of dotty summer frocks on offer.
“The modern Wimbledon wardrobe is about looking polished, breathable and confident while respecting the event’s smart dress code,” adds Robb. “It’s a subtle shift away from tradition, but one that reflects how luxury fashion is becoming increasingly individual, practical and expressive. Looking expensive is about investing in timeless pieces that feel effortless.”
Game on.